How to Fix A Samsung Washing Machine Making Noise During the Spin Cycle?

Wiki Article

A noisy washing machine during the spin cycle is not just an annoyance—it can signal anything from a minor user error to a serious mechanical failure. Fortunately, you can often diagnose and solve the problem yourself without calling a technician.

### Step 1: The "Easy Fixes" (User Error & Installation)

Before assuming the worst, check these simple issues, as they are the most common culprits for noise and vibration .

**1. Remove the Shipping Bolts**

If your washer is new or recently moved, check the back. Shipping bolts are inserted to secure the drum during transit. Running the machine with these in place will destroy the suspension system and cause a violent, loud noise . You should have four long bolts with plastic spacers; remove them and insert the provided plastic caps into the holes.

**2. Level the Floor & Feet**

A machine that "walks" across the floor or vibrates heavily is likely unlevel .

- **Check:** Push opposite corners of the top panel. If the machine rocks, it is uneven.

- **Fix:** Use a wrench to adjust the front leveling feet. Lower the feet until the washer is stable and use a spirit level to ensure it is flat. Tighten the locknuts once level .

**3. Check the Laundry Load**

The most common noise (a rhythmic thumping) is caused by an unbalanced load .

- **The Single Item Issue:** Washing a single heavy item (like a bath mat, comforter, or pair of jeans) will cause the drum to spin off-balance, resulting in loud banging . Add a few towels to balance the drum.

- **Overloading:** Stuffing the machine too full prevents clothes from moving freely, causing the motor to strain .

- **Foreign Objects:** Coins, bra wires, or keys often fall out of pockets and rattle against the drum. These can also get stuck in the drain pump .

### Step 2: Identify the Noise (Diagnostic Guide)

If the basics are covered, the *type* of noise tells you exactly what is broken.

| Noise Type | Likely Cause | Urgency |

| :--- | :--- | :--- |

| **Banging / Thumping** | Unbalanced load, broken suspension rod (top loaders), or loose counterweight . | **Medium** |

| **Rattling / Clicking** | Coins, keys, or bra wires inside the drum or caught in the drain pump . | **Low** |

| **Scraping / Grinding** | Worn out tub bearings or a broken spider arm . | **High** |

| **Jet Engine / Roaring** | Failed tub bearings (very common in Samsung front loaders) . | **Critical** |

| **Humming / Growling** | Clogged or failing drain pump (often happens when draining water) . | **Medium** |

### Step 3: Mechanical DIY Repairs

If the noise persists after leveling and balancing the load, you may need to open the machine.

**1. The Drain Pump (Rattling or Growling)**

If the noise occurs specifically when the water drains, the pump impeller might be obstructed.

- **Fix:** Front-load Samsung washers have a small access panel at the bottom front corner. Open it, place a towel down to catch water, and twist the emergency drain hose to empty the tank. Then, unscrew the pump filter. You will likely find coins, hairpins, or lint blocking the pump .

**2. Suspension & Shock Absorbers (Thumping)**

- **Top Loaders:** Open the lid. If the tub moves side to side easily, the suspension rods may have snapped or worn out .

- **Front Loaders:** If the drum drops heavily when you push it down, the shock absorbers are weak. Replacing these usually requires removing the bottom panel .

**3. The Drive Pulley & Belt (Clunking)**

In some cases, the large pulley at the back of the drum becomes loose. One user found that a "knocking" noise was resolved simply by accessing the rear of the machine and tightening the central bolt on the drive pulley .

### Step 4: Recognizing Major Failures (The "Spider Arm" & Bearings)

If your washer sounds like a "jet engine" or a "helicopter" during the high-speed spin, the news is not good . This is usually **bearing failure** or a **broken spider arm**.

- **The Spider Arm:** This is the metal tripod holding the stainless steel drum to the drive shaft. When it corrodes or breaks, the drum becomes loose. You can check this by opening the door and trying to lift the inner drum vertically. If it moves independently of the outer tub, the spider is broken .

- **The Bearings:** If the noise is a deep, roaring rumble that gets louder as the spin speed increases, the bearings are shot. This often presents with grey/black plastic shreds in the filter .

**The Verdict on Major Repairs:** Replacing bearings or the spider arm is an "economically unviable" repair for most machines. It requires a full disassembly, a bearing puller, and often results in the drum leaking later. Unless the machine is under warranty, the cost of labor for this fix is often higher than buying a new washing machine .

### Summary Checklist

1.  **Stop the machine** immediately to prevent further damage.

2.  **Redistribute the load** and remove large single items.

3.  **Check the floor** and level the feet.

4.  **Clean the drain pump filter** (check for debris).

5.  **Spin the drum by hand**—if it grinds, the bearings are dead.

6.  **Lift the inner drum**—if it wobbles, the spider arm is broken.

If you have tried steps 1-4 and the noise persists, especially if it is a grinding or roaring sound, it is time to call a professional or replace the unit.